Hold the Rock 'N Roll (musings on music to accompany sushi)
When I got my first iPod in 2002 – a gleaming, snow-white block of happiness with a 5 GB hard drive and the ability to hold up to 1000 songs – I became obsessed with creating playlists. I copied most of my CD collection to my Mac and spent hours compiling the Soundtrack of My Life.
I created playlists for Dark Days and Lazy Afternoons, and ones for Impromptu Road Trips and Uncontrollable Fits of Laughter. I mixed Antony and the Johnsons with Cat Power and Bebel Gilberto, Pink Martini with Ladytron. I made an R.E.M.-only playlist and one titled Marshmallow Creme, featuring female jazz vocalists. For an Asian-themed dinner party, I made a list titled The Silk Road, punctuated by a pop piece by Dim Dim, and a haunting number by Mokhira.
I made so many playlists that I burned myself out. For well over a year, I haven’t made a single one; rather, I’ve been enjoying the results of the hours I spent swapping one song for another. Most of my playlists are now as familiar to me as any of my favorite CDs.
My original iPod has long since been replaced by a newer one (I gave the original to one of my sisters, who took it with her on a European jaunt. It was swiped from her seat on a train bound for Florence. Somewhere, an Italian person is humming along to bits and pieces of my collection. Oddly, this makes me happy.).
Last weekend, as the Moroccan and I sat down at the counter of one of our favorite North Bay sushi restaurants, we were amused to hear Def Leppard playing over the restaurant sound system. We were less amused by the third Def Leppard song in a row. “Guess they’re playing the whole album,” I sighed.
I like Joe Elliot and Rick “Sav” Savage as much as the next person, but really: does “Armageddon It” pair well with uni? Does “Hysteria” improve the flavor of the slivery slice of aji wedged between your chopsticks? I’m here to tell you (twelve songs later): no, it doesn’t.
I started wondering out loud what music would play well with sushi, and before I knew it, the Moroccan had beckoned the owner (a lovely and dignified Japanese man who wears suspenders and beautiful Hermes ties no matter what the weather), and volunteered my playlist-making ability.
The owner (who has become a friend, by virtue of the fact that we sit at his counter at least once a week, and chat until the wee hours), was only vaguely aware that his staff was grooving to “Rock of Ages” as they ferried softshell crab and spicy hotate throughout the dining room.
“They play whatever they want,” he said resignedly, gesturing to a gaggle of 20-something waitresses huddled at the end of the sushi bar.
So, after a long hiatus, I’m once again combing through my iTunes library to create Music to Accompany Freshly Demised Fish. I have to admit: I've missed this ritual of sorting, listening, discarding, playing and replaying. I'd forgotten how enjoyable it is.
And now I'd like to know: what would you like to listen to while ikura and ankimo titillate your tongue? I’d love to hear your suggestions.
Bonus question: Do you pay attention to music in restaurants, or is it mostly just background noise?
When I’ve finished assembling my playlist, I’ll post it here.



Oh I make gobs of playlists too. Sometimes it's just throwing in scads of things together for a whole evening of thematic music, other times I compose albums around specific themes -- Lush in the Dust, for an event we threw in Palm Springs; Entre Nous, for my French study group; an annual Earworm mix of songs that got stuck in my head during the year. I don't have a sushi mix, but I may have to make one now.
I'm always amused by the music in sushi places. Often it's jazz, cryptically, but Def Leppard is a new one on me.
One time, DPaul and I stopped off for a quick drink in the lounge of the Four Seasons downtown. There was a piano player tinkling the keys. It was only after a few songs I realized he was playing piano-bar renditions of hard rock tunes -- Stairway to Heaven finally tipped me off.
Posted by: Sean | July 07, 2007 at 09:05 AM
My husband is particularly fussy about the background music in a restaurant, but no music at all really upsets him. I don't like restaurants that allow the staff to choose the music without considering the age group of the diners.
Posted by: barbara | July 07, 2007 at 04:49 PM
I mostly pay attention to ethnic music at ethnic restaurants. Especially when it's an ethnic cover of an American pop song. I love that.
I have no idea what to listen to whilst eating sushi, but I'd like to sit and eat a bunch of sushi today to ponder it. Mmmm.
By the way, I love the image of the stolen iPod and the lucky Italian with your playlists!
Posted by: Tiffany | July 09, 2007 at 10:03 AM
Sean - the iPod brought out the budding deejay in all of us... isn't it fun? Sometimes I think I'd like to take it further (and learn to REALLY deejay, with fades and mixes and all that fun stuff), but I can't seem to find the time! I'm loving your Earworm mix.
Barbara - I agree with your husband that no music is kind of eerie - even if I don't always notice music in restaurants, I immediately sense no music at all. It makes the environment feel too close and claustrophobic.
Tiffany - Ethnic restaurants often do have great music, don't they... And yes, I occasionally wonder about that iPod of mine and where it has been.
Posted by: Jennifer Jeffrey | July 09, 2007 at 09:17 PM
love your taste in music - Antony and the Johnsons, Bebel Gilberto and Pink Martini....in fact think i'll put some pink martini on now and cook up breakfast!
Posted by: alison | July 10, 2007 at 08:57 AM
Def Leppard and sushi? What are those kiddies in the kitchen really rolling? ;p You started a sushi music discussion between my sister and me after reading this post. She suggested cool ambient music. I'm thinking that there must be an online Japanese music broadcast or podcast out there. I checked itunes radio but there wasn't one even under international. But the Japanese are certainly techno savvy...there must be something online to show what's hip and happening (or smooth and ambient)on that side of the world. Hmmm...where to search...
Posted by: susanna | July 11, 2007 at 08:04 PM